April 19, 2011

M.A.C Ultimate Transformation: Creating Drag Master Class

Recently I attended a M.A.C Master Class called Ultimate Transformation: Creating Drag and it was the first time my M.A.C store had this type of class that taught how to do more dramatic makeup than just everyday looks. This class was taught by Christopher DelCastillo who has been doing makeup for over 10 years, his credits include fashion week and even creating the makeup look for Christina Aguilera's Back to Basics tour.

Before the class the model, named Andrew, had already prepped his face. Christopher had advised to use the least amount of emollient products like moisturizers and eye creams as that can make the makeup slide off. Instead, you should use primers like in the Prep + Prime line and apply those products after the moisturizers.

With my friend Hikari and M.A.C Makeup Artist, Christopher DelCastillo

Christopher worked on the brows for most of the class as he said that is the most difficult part and takes the most time in concealing. He recommended for people who have never covered brows before to start with a glue stick as that's the easiest to use. He also suggested flexible sealer and spirit gum but his favorite product is Pro-Aides Cream that you can buy it at Naimes Beauty Center. It's a product that is actually also used to create prosthetics for special effects makeup and so you need a special cleanser to remove it.

Christopher used a small spatula to smooth the Pro-Aides Cream, following how the hair grows not against it. Once the cream has dried, he covered it with NW30 Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer with a 130 brush to add warmth to the skin. He also used a small spatula to cover the tiny areas in the brows and then a 224 brush to blend the edges.

Virgin Isle Cream Colour Base was then applied with a 130 brush to the facial hair areas to cancel out the shadows and blue tones under the skin. Next, a mix of NW35/NC35 Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation was applied to cover Virgin Isle and to set the brows. He used a 138 brush in a patting motion all over the face and brows, making sure to go with the hair growth so it doesn't disturb the coverage, as well as using a 239 brush to cover the small cracks within the brows.

Men's brows are lower and thicker compared to women so to create a feminine brow, you need to draw them higher. To know what shape you want to draw, he said to follow the bone structure of the face and it should be fuller in the center, thinner at the tail. On Andrew, he first used Spiked Eye Brows, also mentioning Fling, Lingering, and Velvetone as other shades to use for brows. He also created a 4-Pro Pan Palette of Eyeshadows that you can use for brows, the colors being Cork, Omega, Espresso, and Embark which he used on Andrew with a 266 brush.

Andrew a.k.a "Esperanza" lol

Because the brows took so much time, Christopher did the eye makeup rather quickly and didn't really go into too much detail of explaining what he was doing. He did recommend starting out with warmer colors to create depth and had used these products:
  • Gesso Eyeshadow: 227 brush; patted on brow-bone area (where the brows are covered) to highlight
  • Virgin Isle Cream Colour Base: 217 brush; crease
  • Orange Eyeshadow: 222 brush; over Virgin Isle and to be used as a blending color
  • Passionate Eyeshadow: 214 brush; outer half of crease and 2/3 of bottom lash line
  • Brown Script Eyeshadow: 217 brush; crease
  • Chrome Yellow Eyeshadow: 217 brush; above crease to add warmth
  • Sketch Eyeshadow: 214 brush; outer corner of crease and bottom lash line
  • Phloof! Eyeshadow: 252 brush; highlight lid and inner corner, blended over Sketch
  • Stars N' Rockets Eyeshadow: 252 brush; outer corner of lid
For the false lashes, Christopher layered 3 different pairs: #2 as the base, #1 in the middle, #3 on top. He then lined the top lash line with Boot Black Liquid Eye Liner using a 266 brush.

The difference between a males and a females bone structure is that males have a square jawline and females have a pointier chin. To make a male's face more feminine, you need to contour the jaw to make it look more rounder and softer. Christopher has a 6-Pro Pan Palette of his favorite Blushes that he reaches for and  works on everyone. It consists of: Peaches, Pinch O' Peach, Pink Swoon, Raisin, Harmony, and Blunt. He used the 138 brush with Harmony Blush to contour the jawline and Blunt Blush to contour the cheekbone, starting from behind the ear. With a 116 brush, he mixed Pinch O' Peach and Pink Swoon Blush for the cheek color and then used Soft N' Gentle Mineralize Skinfinish to highlight the cheekbones.   Christopher said if you want to contour the nose and still make it look natural, use a mid-tone brown like Harmony Blush with a 224 brush and connect it from the inner corner of the crease near the brow.

Lastly, for the lips Christopher used:
  • Vino Lip Pencil: outline the lips
  • Angel Lipstick
  • Oyster Girl Tinted Lipglass: highlight center of lips

Whew! That's a lot to write about the class! I'll be listing and reviewing products I bought (the $100 fee is redeemable in products) in another post since I bought quite a bit and this post is already so long. ;) I hope these tips have helped and have inspired you to transform your own face!

Glamour Girl


  1. Interesting. I think the brows still show thorough. Overall the finished look is nice. Would love to know what items you've purchased. You could take a pic. and list them and review them later on...I'm too curious! :)

  2. I would agree with Galina, The brows are still visible, it would have helped a bit if the model were to have trimmed them down a bit, it might have helped flatten them out with the glue. I have to be honest though I don't really like the colors they chose to put on the model, I have seen numerous makeup looks on drag before, this one just looks a bit meh, nothing special...no doubt though that you learned alot being in the class. And girlie you always look gorgeous! What is that nail polish you have on? Have a good one!

  3. @ lali_amoramakeup
    Yea, Christopher didn't really have a specific look that he was going for so he sort of chose colors on the go lol.

    And thank you! The nail polish I'm wearing is Already Famous by Sephora O.P.I :)


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